Er det noen her som vet om det er mulig på en enkelt måte????
har eksos fra G.P.R........For har en spjeling av en svoger med en 125 ccm som har juster sin litt.....går ca litt bedre enn en freewind
Er det noen her som vet om det er mulig på en enkelt måte????
har eksos fra G.P.R........For har en spjeling av en svoger med en 125 ccm som har juster sin litt.....går ca litt bedre enn en freewind
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Tuning the Freewind.
On request, this part will be translated. Above, I briefly described the tuning of my Freewind. In short, the silencer is swapped and the carburettors are re-jetted. But to be honest, that's not the whole story...
When I left the bike to the shop for it's first service (1000km) they also strapped it to the dyno. They swapped the original 5.9 kg:s heavy-rust-free-metal-exhaust-strangler-silencer in favor of the 2.2 kg:s very-hollow-and-light-alu CRD silencer. The lid on top of the airbox was removed. And the carburettors were re-jetted. That's the easy understandable part. When I picked up the bike I also got a few "extra" pieces back that they didn't thought was necessary mounted on my bike. They said that the bike worked better without them...
By looking in my Suzuki Genuine Service Manual, I think I can identify those "redundant" pieces as:
- Vacuum chamber
- Vacuum Transmitting Valve
- Solenoid Valve
- Some hoses
- Trottle Position Sensor, not removed but electrically disconnected.
More intresting reading from the manual:
The Freewind carburettors features a fancy system called "PISTON VALVE LIFT CONTROL SYSTEM" (!). Quote: "This system controls sudden rising movement of the piston valve". The piston valve in this case is simply the throttle...
By compiling what I have read in the manual and the things I've heard, this is how I understand the system: in 2:nd and 3:rd gear (signal from the gear position sensor) the solenoid valve opens and puts vacuum from carburettor #2 on the , making it to open. By opening the Lift Control Valve, air from the discharge side of the air filter is led into the diaphragm chamber (above the diaphragm) thus preventing the piston valve to lift. That means less air, less gas and as you all probably already have guessed, less power. Did you understand that? If interest exists I might consider scanning some pics from the manual.
I suppose many of you readers get itchy fingers after reading this. Yes, probably you can get a noticeable power gain by only unplugging the Solenoid Valve but I don't give any guarantees of power gains or reliability. The air/fuel-mixing system is very delicate and should be left to professional to mess with. Meltdown is the worst case scenario if you get your mixture too lean. In my case, the shop who dynoed my bike had a Lambda-probe connected so they could monitor the mixture under all load/rpm circumstances.
The only thing they didn't got 100% was the bangs when braking with the motor. That indicates a bit too lean mixture on closed throttle or maybe just a bit too empty silencer...
I actually don't know the present jetting. Since it has worked perfectly the latest 19000 km:s, I haven't taken the carbs apart yet. But perhaps 134-2 in the pic above means main jet size 134. Stock is according to my manual 115, so 134 almost feels a bit big... the "2" can mean needle clip position but again, I'm not sure.
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er det noen som har prøvd dette her i landet eller?har lest den saken tidligere men har ikke turt og prøve
Og en ting til når eg først er her......Har problem med at sykkelen ikke går på tomgang,må holdes på 2000 rpm ellers så stopper den brått.men starter igjen med en gang.....sykkelen er kjørt ca 74000 km....gjevnlig hatt service og ventil justering......ca før hver sesong
snap/////////////////////////////
Tuning the Freewind.
On request, this part will be translated. Above, I briefly described the tuning of my Freewind. In short, the silencer is swapped and the carburettors are re-jetted. But to be honest, that's not the whole story...
When I left the bike to the shop for it's first service (1000km) they also strapped it to the dyno. They swapped the original 5.9 kg:s heavy-rust-free-metal-exhaust-strangler-silencer in favor of the 2.2 kg:s very-hollow-and-light-alu CRD silencer. The lid on top of the airbox was removed. And the carburettors were re-jetted. That's the easy understandable part. When I picked up the bike I also got a few "extra" pieces back that they didn't thought was necessary mounted on my bike. They said that the bike worked better without them...
By looking in my Suzuki Genuine Service Manual, I think I can identify those "redundant" pieces as:
- Vacuum chamber
- Vacuum Transmitting Valve
- Solenoid Valve
- Some hoses
- Trottle Position Sensor, not removed but electrically disconnected.
More intresting reading from the manual:
The Freewind carburettors features a fancy system called "PISTON VALVE LIFT CONTROL SYSTEM" (!). Quote: "This system controls sudden rising movement of the piston valve". The piston valve in this case is simply the throttle...
By compiling what I have read in the manual and the things I've heard, this is how I understand the system: in 2:nd and 3:rd gear (signal from the gear position sensor) the solenoid valve opens and puts vacuum from carburettor #2 on the , making it to open. By opening the Lift Control Valve, air from the discharge side of the air filter is led into the diaphragm chamber (above the diaphragm) thus preventing the piston valve to lift. That means less air, less gas and as you all probably already have guessed, less power. Did you understand that? If interest exists I might consider scanning some pics from the manual.
I suppose many of you readers get itchy fingers after reading this. Yes, probably you can get a noticeable power gain by only unplugging the Solenoid Valve but I don't give any guarantees of power gains or reliability. The air/fuel-mixing system is very delicate and should be left to professional to mess with. Meltdown is the worst case scenario if you get your mixture too lean. In my case, the shop who dynoed my bike had a Lambda-probe connected so they could monitor the mixture under all load/rpm circumstances.
The only thing they didn't got 100% was the bangs when braking with the motor. That indicates a bit too lean mixture on closed throttle or maybe just a bit too empty silencer...
I actually don't know the present jetting. Since it has worked perfectly the latest 19000 km:s, I haven't taken the carbs apart yet. But perhaps 134-2 in the pic above means main jet size 134. Stock is according to my manual 115, so 134 almost feels a bit big... the "2" can mean needle clip position but again, I'm not sure.
snap//////////////////////////////////////////////
er det noen som har prøvd dette her i landet eller?har lest den saken tidligere men har ikke turt og prøve
Og en ting til når eg først er her......Har problem med at sykkelen ikke går på tomgang,må holdes på 2000 rpm ellers så stopper den brått.men starter igjen med en gang.....sykkelen er kjørt ca 74000 km....gjevnlig hatt service og ventil justering......ca før hver sesong
Har ikke gjort annet enn å koble bort ventilen som hindrer full gassrespons i 2. og 3. gir. Synes ikke det ga den store forskjellen. , men på 74000 km er det vel kanskje ikke så lurt å trimme allverden eller? Jeg har også litt av det at sykkelen stopper på tomgang, spesiellt hvis den ikke er helt varm, men jeg kjører så sjelden på tomgang at det er egentlig ikke noe problem . Lundamo auto (Tr.heim) fikk noen penger for å se på saken, men uten at det hjalp.
, men på 74000 km er det vel kanskje ikke så lurt å trimme allverden eller? Jeg har også litt av det at sykkelen stopper på tomgang, spesiellt hvis den ikke er helt varm, men jeg kjører så sjelden på tomgang at det er egentlig ikke noe problem